By: Alesia Speir
With summer passing us by rather quickly, it’s time to pack away your swimsuits and sandals. Fall and winter are slowly approaching which means goodbye cotton candy pink and hello ruby red! The cooler seasons bring with them new colors and trends that not only include fashion necessities but make-up must haves! When the seasons change, makeup options are more plentiful in terms of products and colors. Without summer humidity melting the makeup off your face, the ability to wear foundation, powder and cream based products seems like a good idea to hide those sun spots you adopted this year at the beach. Dark colors and jewel tones are a staple color palette for fall and winter. This season plan on having some fun with new makeup trends and explore different products and combinations. My Image Expert’s premier makeup artist, Alesia Spier shares some insider tips that will transform your face from the office to a work holiday party or an evening out. With the right approach and the necessary products, you can perform a makeup touch-up from day to evening in a matter of minutes.
The first thing to remember – “beauty is skin deep.” A professional make-up artist knows that great make-up starts with great skin. So, the first step is to flawless makeup begins with the cleansing process. This is something you should do regularly both day and night. This should be a regular process much like brushing your teeth. Most women wash their make-up off at night but surprisingly many women do not wash their face in the morning. Putting foundation or powder over skin that has not been cleaned could be trapping sweat or oil which accumulates overnight. When resting, your body goes into recovering mode. This includes your skin and is a natural process of replenishment. Overnight, your skin produces the natural oils and vitamins it has lost throughout the day. Not washing your face in the morning can cause oil to build up and clog your pores and cause break outs.
Next apply a great primer with spf. Foundation will take smoother consistency and last longer with spf concentrate. This helps to also protect the skin’s surface from unwanted hyper pigmentation. This is especially important to women with darker skin tones because wearing sunscreen is not a regular part of their skincare regime. Women of color are often plagued by skin discolorations that could easily be prevented by wearing sunscreen. The sun makes dark spots on the skin’s surface and post breakouts even darker. This results in uneven skin tones which can become an expensive corrective treatment. There are several make-up primers on the market. Alesia’s favorite is Smashbox because it has a velvety texture and is available in different forms:
- Color corrective (green tint for redness relief and purple tint to combat a yellow skin tone)
After applying your primer, you will apply foundation. This is where you might want to cough up a few extra bucks. Finding the right shade and formula is mandatory to achieve a flawless make-up application. When selecting a foundation, you should consider the following:
- What is your skin type? Do you have an oily or dry skin texture?
- Do you like powder or liquid, or both? Maybe you’re just not sure, which is ok too. The information below will help you decide on your preference.
- Do you prefer Mineral make-up or treatment makeup?
- Do you need corrective make-up?
If you have normal to dry skin, a mineral based liquid or powder is best. Dry or aging skin tends to need more hydration so a treatment foundation is best. Oily skin tends to cause frequent breakouts. If have an oily skin texture a mineral powder works great to alleviate the shine. Last but not least, if you tend to have uneven or discolored skin you should use corrective make-up. There are several on the market including, Excuviance which can be found in Ulta stores. This product has a small color range that surprisingly matches most skin tones.
Select the most flattering feature on your face and emphasize it! For many, the eyes say it all. This season a try a new twist cat eyes, a timeless and classic favorite. Before applying eye makeup, make sure you eyebrows are well manicured. So many women neglect their brows. Having a nice brow line will widen the eye and acts as a complimenting frame. Start with a light shadow, preferably two shades lighter than your skin color. Sweep this shade from lid to brow. Next, take a darker contour shade (charcoal or a sable) to outline the lid area along the lash line with an eye shadow brush. Stop when you come to the outer edge. Then, begin at the outer edge to make a > in the corner edge of the eye. Be careful; only draw the shape to the lid crease and half way into the center of the lid. Use a brush to blend the two colors together.
To finish your look you will need to line the eye with eyeliner and add mascara. Find a liner you feel comfortable with. You may want to experiment first in order to find one that works best for you. If you are unsure just start with a pencil and graduate to a liquid. Liquid creates a dramatic look with dark and sharp lines. The new Pot Liner by Bare Minerals (black) comes with two precision brushes. These are perfect for drawing a professional cat eye. The secret to drawling cat eyes is as follows:
- With the liquid (or pencil) liner, draw the liner out from the inside of the eye just above the lash line.
- When you get closer to the end of the eye, being to extend the line diagonally towards the brow.
- Don’t draw the line too high or it may look silly. Keep it realistic with on a slight diagonal bias.
Finish the look with a flesh color lipstick that matches your own lip color but is about two shades darker.
To make this into an evening look, there are a few variations. Try using a flesh tone eye shadow with a slight metallic sheen. Just below the brow bone, spice up the contour shadow by making it darker. To finish your look add lip stain in a berry or a red hue and top it off with clear lip gloss. Two favorites are Lip Fusion lip gloss because it stays on forever and Nars lip stain (Indian Red).